Marseille, My Love: Three Days of Sunshine, Flavors, and Queer Discoveries

Marseille is an instant crush. Raw and radiant, she greets you like an old friend. From the moment Jim and I arrived, we felt the pulse of this port city’s thousand faces—Mediterranean, concrete, poetry all in one. And let’s just say our little getaway quickly blossomed into a technicolor urban romance.

Day 1 — Artsy Check-In, Sea-Sprayed Feast & Rooftop Soirée

We drop our bags at Mama Shelter, the arty-bobo hotspot with pop graphics and laid-back vibes. The rooms could use a refresh, but our corner suite is spacious, awash in light, and perfect for a first Marseille night. The staff’s warm welcome sets the tone: here, you’re in good hands.

Our first stop: the Grandes Halles du Vieux-Port. We meet up with our Marseillaise friend Rabiha, who guides us through the bustling stalls of this effervescent food court. Imagine a Mediterranean agora in the heart of the city—2,000 m² designed by Olympe Zographos, with ten eateries, a wine bar, and a dozen market stalls. Co-founder Julien Fabre shares his vision: a human, gastronomic project celebrating Southern flavors in a spirit of sharing. We savor Roman-style calamari, briny oysters, sublime pink shrimp, and the famed half-and-half pizza—all washed down with a fruity white from Cassis. A DJ spins a summer groove that sweeps us away.

As the sun dips, we head to the Sofitel rooftop, Dantes Skylounge: Cinematic port views, precision-crafted mojitos, sky set ablaze… Pure magic. On a whim (and a few drinks in), we pop over to Polikarpov, an iconic gay-friendly terrace on the Old Port. Inspiring locals, curious travelers, sun-kissed beauties—the night promises to be full and joyful.

Day 2 — Mediterranean Culture, Asian Delights & High Dining

I wake up bleary-eyed; Jim devours crepes as if nothing’s amiss—it’s 10:30 a.m. We set off on foot for the Mucem. Our route takes us through Cours Julien—street art haven, alternative cafes, queer-friendly bookstores—then Noailles, a vibrant maze of spice markets and Middle Eastern aromas. Marseille lives on every level. Jim insists we drop by the Marseille LGBTQIA+ Center for intel on local queer programming.

At the Mucem, we’re speechless. This architectural gem of concrete lace and suspended walkways seems to float between sea and sky. Inside, captivating exhibitions on Mediterranean anthropology, history, and migration give way to the rooftop terrace—360° views of La Major, the port, and the open sea, like a living stained glass window.

We wander next to Le Panier, Marseille’s oldest neighborhood—pastel facades, artisan studios, postcard-perfect charm.

Lunch at Meo Midnight, a serene Asian jewel on a quiet square. Zen decor, white linens, immaculate dishware: we dive into Michaël Teixeira’s world—Portuguese roots meet Asian flair. His spring rolls—crisp, aromatic with scallions, shrimp, and peanut sauce—balance comfort and surprise. Each dish, from lemongrass coconut curry to briny creations, plays like a masterfully composed score. A delicate, cool pleasure.

Afternoon: we shop local—vintage finds in Cours Julien, indie bookstores, avant-garde galleries—then swing by Uniqlo on Rue Saint-Ferréol. We cap it off with a drink on the terrace of Les Terrasses du Port, horizon-front luxe.

Dinner at La Mercerie, applauded by the MICHELIN Guide. On Cours Saint-Louis, this modern table offers a five-course “Feed Me” menu—an emotive journey through local produce, paired with natural wines and set against raw-chic decor.

We close the night at Pulse, Marseille’s queer-electro institution—open until dawn, themed nights (queer pop Wednesdays, minimal electro Fridays), drag shows, live performances. The dance floor pulses with inclusive energy, the crowd supportive, cocktails ready to fuel us into the morning.

Day 3 — Divine Vistas & Brutalist Utopia

Our final Marseille dawn. No trip is complete without a pilgrimage to La Bonne Mère. We climb to Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde—steep but oh-so-worth it. The city unfurls below—sea to hills, docks to basilica—stark, powerful, breathtaking.

Next, a stop at the Marseille History Museum, where the tattoo exhibition captivates with its aesthetic depth and historical resonance.

For lunch, La Cantinetta—a hidden Italian trattoria behind a discreet gate. Secret garden, house-made pasta, creamy burrata, chilled Pinot Grigio… An elegant, unhurried interlude!

Before we depart, one last detour to Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse. This brutalist icon is a vertical village—330 apartments, interior streets, shops, a rooftop nursery, and even a hotel-restaurant. Built to Modulor proportions, each unit boasts luminous loggias and impressive sound insulation.

On the 9th-floor rooftop, you’ll find an open-air theatre, a repurposed kiddie pool atelier, and panoramic views that celebrate the poetry of modern living.

It’s 4 p.m. On the way out, we imagine a final dip at Mont Rose Beach—gay-friendly, naturist inlet in the calanques—before hitting the road to Mandelieu.

Marseille took us by the hand and never let go. Multicultural, generous, effortlessly queer-friendly, she gifted us a joyous, sensual, and vibrantly alive moment in time.

If you’re visiting in July, don’t miss the Marseille Pride March on July 5, 2025 — when Marseille switches into full queer mode!

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