Eressos Calling: Sapphic Spirit and Queer Joy on the Shores of Lesvos

There are places that welcome you like an old friend — even when it’s your first time. Skala Eressos, a small village on the Greek island of Lesvos, is one of them. Tucked away between olive groves and the endless blue of the Aegean Sea, this sun-drenched corner of the world becomes, every September, a sanctuary for queer women and non-binary folks from across the globe I didn’t know it when I boarded the plane from Brussels, but I was about to experience something rare: a truly inclusive, intergenerational, international moment of queer joy: the International Eressos Women’s Festival!

First Impressions: Between Mytilini and Magic

The trip begins with a flight to Mytilini, the capital of Lesvos. The connecting plane from Athens sets the tone: it’s buzzing with a very specific energy. Think comfortable sandals, rainbow tattoos, and the unmistakable excitement of reunion. “It’s my sixth time,” says Marie, a French woman seated next to me. “It’s the only holiday where I feel completely at ease — seen, celebrated, and safe.”

As the wheels touch the tarmac, informal alliances are already forming: travelers sharing taxis, comparing Airbnb addresses, helping each other with luggage. It feels more like arriving at a queer summer camp than a traditional destination.

By the time we reach Eressos, it’s late. My hotel, the Eressian Hotel & Hammam Spa, glows softly in the moonlight. The pool is lit from within, casting dreamy reflections on the whitewashed walls. It’s almost too cinematic to be real — until the receptionist greets me with a warm “Welcome home.” And somehow, it doesn’t feel like an exaggeration.

A Village with a Sapphic Soul

To understand what makes Eressos so special, you have to go back — way back — to Sappho, the legendary poet born here in the 7th century BCE. Her lyrical odes to love between women have echoed through the ages, making Lesvos (yes, that’s where the word lesbian comes from) a symbolic homeland for queer women around the world.

And yet, this isn’t some dusty historical footnote. In Skala Eressos, Sappho’s presence is alive and felt. Her statue watches over the beach promenade, bars carry her name, and her verses are printed on T-shirts and postcards. But more importantly, her legacy thrives in the spirit of the International Eressos Women’s Festival — a grassroots celebration of queer womanhood that’s been going strong for over 20 years.

Festival Days: Workshops, Waves, and Women from Everywhere

The festival programme is eclectic and vibrant. Think African dance workshops, political panels, poetry readings, art exhibitions, DJ sets, and spontaneous beach parties. I start with an empowerment circle in a shaded courtyard, where women from Texas to Thessaloniki share their life stories. One participant, a quiet American with sunburnt cheeks, tells us how she spends her weekends by the side of empty roads holding a sign that reads “I’m here to listen.” I’m not the only one with tears in her eyes.

Later, I join a dance workshop led by a German performer who’s been attending the festival for 15 years. “It’s the only place where I don’t feel like I have to explain myself,” she says. “I come for the movement, but stay for the community.” Under the sun, bodies move freely. There is no judgment. Just joy.

Evenings are for gathering. At Kafenes or Sam’s Restaurant, groups of friends, lovers, and new acquaintances share meze: grilled octopus, roasted aubergines, fresh tomatoes, feta with honey, olives that taste like the sea. Stray cats weave around our ankles, adding an accidental cliché to an otherwise perfect setting. Later, we dance — barefoot, by the water, until the stars are outnumbered by disco lights.

A Different Kind of Tourism

It’s hard to overstate how refreshing it is to be in a queer space that isn’t hyper-commercial, whitewashed, or exclusive. This is not Mykonos. There are no VIP wristbands or overpriced drinks. Instead, you’ll find community. Many of the bars and restaurants are run by women who came here for the festival — and never left. They’ve built lives, opened businesses, started families. In this way, Eressos isn’t just a vacation spot — it’s a queer village that regenerates itself every year.

The festival itself is run largely by volunteers and locals. It’s feminist, grassroots, multilingual, and welcoming to all women and non-binary folks regardless of age, body, background or ability. And while it’s not “activist” in the classic sense, it is radical — simply by offering joy, visibility, and connection in a world that still too often denies us those things.

Beyond Eressos: Landscapes of Lesvos

Sunday is reserved for exploring the wider island. First stop: Petra, with its whitewashed houses and the church of Panagia Glykofilousa perched dramatically atop a rock. Then on to Molyvos, a fairy-tale village crowned by a medieval castle. The streets smell of jasmine, and the sea sparkles below like a spilled tray of sequins.

There’s also Plomari, the capital of ouzo, where we toured the Isidoros Arvanitis distillery. I didn’t expect to like ouzo — anise isn’t usually my thing — but here, sipped slowly with grilled sardines, it makes perfect sense. Ouzo isn’t a shot. It’s a conversation. And that’s what Lesvos teaches you over and over: slow down, take it in, connect.

The Takeaway: Come as You Are

When I left Lesvos, it was before sunrise. The taxi driver sped through the hills with abandon, the moon still full above us. I was tired — but full. Full of conversations, sea salt, music, ouzo, and something harder to define. A sense of belonging, perhaps. Of being part of something larger, older, and wiser than myself.

Eressos isn’t just a destination. It’s a feeling. A frequency. A small place with a huge heart. Whether you’re travelling solo, with a lover, or chosen family, this sunlit village invites you to just be. No performance. No filter. Just you.

And Sappho? If she were here, she’d be watching us from the bar, sipping ouzo, and smiling.

Planning your sapphic escape?

• International Eressos Women’s Festival – 7 to 20 September
• Travel with Aegean Airlines
• Stay at Eressian Hotel & Hammam Spa
• Learn more: Discover Greece

Photos by Discover Greece.